CAPRIVI

Salambala village

A conservancy discussion

Caprivi village kitchen

Inside a Caprivi compound

Caprivi village

Pumping

Back from the pump

Buying chitanges in Katima

View of the market from a one table restaurant, Katima

We’ve just returned from a 12 day trip for work to Caprivi.  That is the name for the long strip which extends to the east from the northeast corner of Namibia.  It has an interesting history dating back to German Southwest Africa days when the Germans traded Zanzibar for this strip, giving them access to the water route of the Zambezi River.

Caprivi, with its capital Katima Mulilo is quite different from the rest of Namibia.  The languages are different and the people really belong more to Zambia and Botswana than to Namibia.  Ten years ago there was a struggle for independence.

Andy visited a number of conservancies and I went along for one of the visits when my workshops in town were finished.  The conservancies are being set up as a way to have groups of villages live in harmony with the wild life and profit from it through tourism and sustainable wildlife management.  We saw a total of five elephants on the road down the strip, quite exciting I must say.

Katima Mulilo is a vibrant town on the Zambezi River with a great market and little one table restaurants behind lace curtains around the edge of the market.  Great spots for traditional food dishes of  pap and fish and for people watching from behind the curtains.

Outreach to Nama villages

I have been far from a computer lately.  For a week a work colleague and I were doing outreach to the Nama villages to the south of Windhoek.  The Nama or Khoi are ancient inhabitants of the region and many live in small villages in very dry parts of Namibia.  Some tend goats on small parcels of land in the desert.   Our job was to assess their needs and to determine how our organization can bring them useful information.   Fortunately my colleague is part Nama and speaks it fluently.  We found that the biggest problem is lack of any way to make a reasonable living.  This results of course in poverty, alcohol abuse and theft, the only way to get the money to pay for the alcohol.  Domestic violence is the other problem;  again its interwoven with all the other issues.

Stampreit outreach

Stampreit teachers

Stampreit school

Gibeon village

Desert outreach

desert outreach

Desert outreach

Kids at desert school

Maltahohe community meeting in a church

Two Nama ladies after the meeting

Swakop, Sossusvlei and Etosha

Off on our quad bikes

Springbok in the desert

Fossilized elephant tracks

Fossilized human footprints with other animal tracks

Uncovered grave

!nara melon

Dunes at sunset

After sundowners

Afrikaaners to our rescue. They have all the gear!

People climbing the dune spine, Sossusvlei

Dead Vlei

Sossusvlei dunes

The vlei at Sossusvlei

Etosha!

Black faced impala

Abdin storks and zebra at Etosha

Giraffes, Etosha

Hartebeast

Kudu, Etosha

Lion

Lion stalking zebra

Marabou stork

Oryx

Ostrich

Secretary bird

Spotted hyena

Zebras

Zebras. Its rainy season

Favourite Windhoek intersection!

Our son and his wife and her mother visited us for Christmas and New Years so we did a whirlwind tour of the hot spots (literally as well as figuratively!), doing all we could cram into about 11 days.
We headed first to a self catering place in Swakopamund so that we could cook our turkey protected by the cold longshore current from Antarctica.
On Christmas Eve we celebrated by taking an educational quad bike tour into the dunes of the Namib Desert.  Half an hour of training on the bikes and we were off to look at the plants and animals which can exist in this harsh environment.  We saw lots of evidence of ancient man, the Beachcomber Khoi, who lived and hunted in the area when it was a wet clay delta.  Footprints of elephant, various antelope, hyena all mixed up with human ones were fascinating.  There were even graves with skeletal remains dug into the sediment where the layers had been interupted by digging into them. The dunes are constantly in motion  and all these things are uncovered and recovered as the dunes move along over the pavement of fossil footprints.  Quite amazing!  We stopped briefly at a Topnaar settlement, a family grouping that still survives in the ancient way far from civilization.  their main income is from !nara seeds which they collect and sell.
As we left the coast we got well stuck in a sand drift but the well prepared Afrikaaners rallied around and got us out with little trouble.
Then we were on to Sossusvlei to see the famous red sand dunes.  This time we did it right by getting up before dawn to be at the dunes for sunrise so that we could take beautiful photos of the contrasting light and shadows in the intense, low light.
Next we were off to the big game of Etosha in the north, just in time for the rains to begin.  The rain meant that animals did not have to visit the waterholes so we had to hunt for them elsewhere!   A real highlight here was a lioness getting up to stalk a herd of zebra as we watched but a look at the photos will give you a better idea what we saw.
Our final night was at Warerburg Park with its beautiful crowns of red sandstone on top of all the hills.
Then back to Windhoek.  Check out my favourite intersection in the photos!
Cheers!
Anne

A Trip to South Africa

Our campsite in Grunau

A Namibian picnic

Orange River

Northern South Africa

More Northern Cape

Cape Town waterfront

Cape Town waterfront

Silos for renovation

Rainy Cape Town

Seaside Cape Town

Seaside Cape Town

In the botanic gardens

Orange breasted sunbird, botanic gardens

giant proteas botanic gardens

Hadeda ibis

Irish project for new houses

In the townships

Old and new houses

Girl with a new house

In the townships

short necked giraffe

Hats for sale, townships

Sea shell santas

Giraffe diagram showing size

District 6 Cape Town

Nama camp staff and crazy sculptures

2 km wide crater

Weaver bird nests

I have some question as to whether this entry belongs on a Namibia blog but here it is nonetheless! We have known for some time that we wanted to visit Cape Town but we were waiting for Namibia to get really hot so we could go there to escape the heat. We set off on a Thursday and headed south through Mariental and Keetmanshoop. They have the reputation of being both the hottest and coldest places in Namibia. They are flat, dry and sandy with few trees except for the endemic quiver trees which grow in what can only be described as boulder fields. We crossed many broad dry river beds waiting for the rains to fill them. Men were digging out all the culverts along the road which have not seen any action in all the nine months we have been here. We were warned about driving too fast in that area because tires get so hot that they explode. Beyond Keetmanshoop was new territory for us. It became quite mountainous. Mountains of boulders really with little vegetation until you looked closely. Up close many small things were moving and growing. We camped that first night at Grunau, ours the only tent in a big sandy enclosure within the grounds of a hotel. In the hotel bar a cricket match between Australia and India was playing on the TV. This gave me my latest opportunity to try to understand the rules of that game! I am sure I will need more lessons. The next day we were off to South Africa. The border is the Orange River, flowing in a deep one sided gorge. At customs we had to give up the fruits and vegetables we had with us for dinner, breakfast and picnics because “Namibia has fruit flies and South Africa doesn’t”. Do you believe that; I don’t! Then we were on to Springbok to shop for fruit and vegetable replacements! The South African stores are glitzier than Namibian ones though all the grocery chains etc were the same ones as we have in Namibia. Most Namibian stuff comes from S Africa. There was more variety of fruit and veg and also of spices. Our first campsite in S Africa was in Vanrhynsdorp and there was grass!! I was unsure about whether we should set the tent up on it or on the sand nearby but Andy assured me the grass was meant for the tents! In Namibia grass is too precious to set tents on! Then on to Cape Town and as we arrived, the rains began! And it never really stopped. We found Hoppabus tours which enabled us to stay dry as we went from place to place and to get off as we wanted to spend time in various places en route. Table Mountain had its “tablecloth on”, i.e. clouds covered it. That so many used that expression told us that this was not a rare occurrence. The waterfront has been redeveloped and is magnificent with ships being actively refitted in the midst of all the shops. A huge dilapidated silo is supposed to be next for renovation into a luxury hotel. The soccer stadium for the 2010 World Cup looks as though it is nearing completion. Nearby is District 6 or what remains of it. In ? houses here were torn down in some urban redevelopment plan. A whole vibrant community was destroyed with only the two churches spared. But there was such a public outcry that there has been no redevelopment and only the churches and grassy fields are there today. The Kirstenbosch botanical gardens are out of this world and for the three hours we were there the rains held off while we soaked in the amazing green lushness. Proteas, cycads, tree ferns… fabulous things we do not see in Canada or Windhoek! There was a big focus on the endemic plants of the fynbos, the smallest of the world plant kingdoms and also the richest. Then we were on to Imizamo Yethu, a township of poor people who for a few years have been part of a community development project funded by an Irish group (Melon Foundation). The focus is on good housing but people are being helped in other projects as well mostly to make things to sell to tourists. So we visited old and new houses all mixed up together as the new houses are built on the land that the old house was on. Some of the tourist crafts are beautiful things made from old tea bags (it’s a famous success story), Santa faces painted on mussel shells, hats crocheted from strips of plastic grocery bags. Then our bus took us along the expensive waterfront communities of Camps Bay, Houts Bay, Clifton, Sea Point. Then back to our accommodation in the Observatory area, close to Groot Shuur the hospital where Christian Barnard performed the worlds first heart transplant. New birds for us included the orange breasted sunbird and the noisy hadeda ibis. We ate Mexican and Thai food which we had not tasted for awhile and generally enjoyed big city life. Andy will fill you in on our visit to the Cape of Good Hope and the wine areas we visited and I will now jump to Yserfontein where we finally found sunshine! After camping on the long beach at Yserfontein we followed up on a tip and went to see 6000 year old vertebrate fossils in an abandoned phosphate mine. Skeletons, or more likely dead animals had been washed downstream and came to rest as the water rose to flow over a huge rock inn the river. There were both long and short neck giraffes, whales, seals and in an area closeby, the only bear skeleton in Africa. Students from all over the world come in the cool months to excavate and sort the material and then the bones and smaller bits are sent off for further study. We arrived in Springbok with just enough time to set up the tent in daylight and on the following day it was back to Namibia. Immediately it was hotter, drier, sandier and we knew we were home! That night we camped at a crazy campsite of pure sand surrounded by quiver trees and sculptures made from recycled materials by a German sculptor. In fact the whole campsite was made from recycled stuff, from the ablutions block to the buckets to carry water. The camp dog guarded our tent door all night! So now we are back in Windhoek in the Namibian heat but it feels like home! Anne

For the birds, or birders

Andy and I are members of the Namibian bird club.  This was an exciting weekend because we went to Walvis Bay on the coast to link up with the club and do some birding.  On the Saturday morning we went out into the bay passing sand bars covered with seals and colonies of cormorants.  We saw white chinned petrels, sooty shearwaters, cape cormorants and a cape gannet.  Also out in the deep water we came upon a big school of maybe 50 dolphins dipping and diving all around us.  then on sunday we crawled out of our tent quite early and packed up all our gear to join the birders at the Swakopomund salt works with all its desalination ponds.  Some of the ponds with the right salinity were chock full of birds and with all the birders in our group we SAW many birds we had never seen before.  Photos are a different thing!  So take a look at the best I could do!

Kelp gull Walvis Bay

Kelp gull, Walvis Bay

Gannet, Walvis Bay

Caspian terns, Walvis Bay

Dolphins, Walvis Bay

Gulls, avocets and dunes, Walvis Bay

Seals and birds, Walvis Bay

Greater flamingoes, Walvis Bay

Black winged stilts, cape teals, at Swakop salt works

Turnstone at the salt works

2 rare damara terns at salt works

Black necked grebes at the salt works

What some birders will do for a bird!

Luderitz, Diamonds and Fish RiverCanyon

Overlooking Luderitz from the conference site

Teachers house, Kolmanskop ghost town

A hospital room, Kolmanskop

Kolmanskop

Kolmanskop

Feral horses on the Namib Desert

Feral horses

Fish River Canyon

Fish River Canyon

Andy with the quiver trees behind

Quiver tree forest

Giants Playground

Dassies at the GIANTS pLAYGROUND

Cheetahs at a game farm next to the quiver tree forest.

Along the road to Diaz point

Sand road through the sand dunes!

Hovering diamonds

View over Luderitz

We were again able to combine work and pleasure  when we went to present at a conference in the Luderitz area in the extreme southwest of Namibia.  After the conference was over we were free to sightsee for the weekend.

We took a 2 hour boat ride along the rocky coast to see colonies of jackass penguins on one island and a colony of Cape fur seals on another.

Sand dunes on the way to Diaz point

On the whole Namibians don’t like Luderitz because the wind always blows and it is colder than all the rest of the country.  We loved it.  The rocky coves make it very picturesque, reminding me of Newfoundland, and it is small and hilly with everything within walking distance.  It is right on the edge of the Sperrgebeit, the area that is forbidden because of the alluvial diamonds which are there.  Actually they say that desert area will soon be opened up because all the sand has been examined and the diamonds removed.  Now the diamonds are being found offshore and huge ships are hoovering the ocean floor off the coast.  We drove on sand roads and through the sand dunes of the the Diaz Peninsula, along the edge of the Sperrgebeit to Diaz Point where the Portuguese explorer planted a cross in the late 1400s and became the first European to set foot in Namibia.  He missed the diamonds and didn’t stay long since there is no fresh water and only the sun scorched sand of the Namib Desert where many people have died of thirst and starvation after having survived shipwrecks.

The diamonds in the area were discovered in 1908 at a place a few kilometres inland called Kolmanskop.  It instantly became a flourishing town with a concert hall, skittles alley, a hospital capable of holding half the population, fashionable houses for the important people and reasonable accommodation for workers.  Workers came from the north and for the length of their 2 year contract literally crawled over the desert looking for diamonds.  At least when they left they had enough money to set themselves up in some sort of business or buy a house back home.  Before they were discharged they spent two days in quarantine where they were fed castor oil to make sure that they hadn’t swallowed any diamonds with the idea of taking them home with them! The chief engineer had the only tree in town;  he located the water line from the cistern to the town so it went right past his house and he put a puncture in it in his yard so his tree got its water!  The stump is still there!  Today (and since 1958) the buildings are all deserted and the sand drifts in and over everything, eerie and photogenic.

From the ghost town we went to a water hole in the desert where there is a herd of feral horses.  Their origin is a bit unclear but likely they were left after WWI when the Germans had to give up Namibia, but they may have swum to shore after a shipwreck, or maybe both.  Anyway there they are in the Namib Desert eating what little there is to eat and drinking at a man maintained waterhole.  The numbers fluctuate as the young are quite vulnerable but the herd is somewhere around 130.

Our next stop was the Fish River Canyon, quite famous as a place to hike and closed for 2 months in summer because it is too hot for anyone.  It is second in size to the Grand Canyon and until you get up to the edge of it you wouldn’t even know it was there.  It’s amazing and impossible to describe.  You will have to check the photos  and even they do not do it justice. We camped in a campsite nearby which was also home to a troop of baboons.  They are very clever.  The campsite was one of the few places we have seen with recycling bins, three colours for each of paper, glass and “other”.  Of course food went into “other” and those bins were orange.  The baboons tore through the campsite at great speed overturning only the orange bins! We went on the next day to see a qiver forest and camped there watching a beautiful African sunset from our camp chairs.

The quiver trees are members of the aloe family, so called because the San made their quivers out of the branches which can be hollowed out very easily. The next day we visited a strangely eroded rocky area called the giants playground.  Then back to Windhoek.

Local prisoners did a drama for the conference

Cape fur seals off Diaz Point

Jackass Penguin at the deserted house of the guano guard!

Jackass Penguin colony on a very windy day

Gobabeb Research Centre and Namib Desert

This past weekend we set off for an open house at Gobabeb, a world class desert research station in the middle of the Namib Desert.  It is located on the banks of the Kuiseb River, an ephemeral river which flows only when there is water, not even every year.  It is also right where the flat desert meets the big red sand dunes for which the Namib Desert is so famous.  We rented a 4 wheel drive vehicle with 2 tents on top.  These are very common here and we knew that our little car was not up to a weekend of gravel roads, some of them over pretty rough terrain.  We were going with Josie another Windhoek based VSO so we had someone to share the costs.  Our route took us through the Gamsberg Pass and we spent the first night at Hakos guest farm right at the very crest of the pass.  Because of a few hitches renting the vehicle, we left town late and ended up having to set up the tents on top of our vehicle in the dark, with no experience between the 3 of us on how to do this!.  Then we had to get the braii going before we could eat!  Not our choice of how things should turn out but we laughed our way through it all and woke up the next morning to the most incredible scenery.  Harder that getting the tents up was getting them all collapsed and back into their covers on the top of the car in the morning.
The trip down the pass was challenging and the driving down the mountain and then across the desert on little rough and sandy roads took a long time but we reached the research station.  It is so isolated yet here they are conducting really important studies in one of the driest places on earth.  Climate change studies, beetle studies, spider studies, weather monitoring.  The local people are the Topnaars and one experiment is on how to collect water from fog as a source of water for them.  When I first heard of this I thought “Right!” but the next morning we woke up to a really heavy, very cold fog and on our perishing early morning guided nature walk the fog condensed on our hair, our clothing, on everything.  These fogs only occur 60 times a year so we were lucky to experience one!  On our nature walk we saw the holes where spiders live in the scorching desert and during these fogs they put a web across the entrance and drink the fog that collects in drops on the web!  (There is one spider per metre in the Namib Desert!)  We also saw plants that have both fibrous roots very close to the surface and a long tap root as well.  The surface roots are to catch the water from the fogs that condenses and runs down the stems to the soil.  The tap root seeks water at depth.
We saw erosion in granites which is caused by fog as when condensed fog containing salts collects in slight depression and begins the erosion process.  Then the wind blown sand of which there is no shortage, whirls sand round and round in the depressions creating big pocks in the granite, quite unusual looking.
We completely gave up camping at our allocated site in the campground of very deep, fine, loose sand.  We learned that we had much to learn about driving our 4 wheel drive vehicle and at least 3 Afrikaaners offered us advice on how to get our vehicle our of the sand.  It was up to the hubcaps!  Here are the tips:  Deflate the tires a lot, Not enough , Even more.  Dig out little trenches in the sand for the tires to follow in.  Get properly into 4 wheel drive.  Would you like me just to do it for you?  Answer, YES!
They couldn’t have been nicer and eventually we chose a spot outside the camping area where the sand was hard packed!
So that was our Namib experience!   I wish you could feel the hot, hot dry and the perishing damp fog all experienced in less than 24 hours!

Gamsberg Pass in the morning

Gamsberg Pass

Gamsberg Pass

Anne and Andy at the Tropic of Capricorn

Namib Desert, red dunes in the background

dunes at Gobabeb

Dunes and solar panels

Josie and the camper

Cold cold fog

2 kinds of fog erosion

Spider drinking fog!

North to Rundu and Tusano

Post-test Club garden

Indiginous boat on Kavango river

Andy at mahanga shed

Rundu Conference inside

Rundu Garden with Minister

Start of Parade

As some of  you know  we have done a lot of traveling both on business and on holidays. For the last 3 1/2 weeks I and Anne have been up north right along the Angolan border ranging from Opuwo in the west to Divundu in the east. Namibia is a bit like Canada with 50% of its 2 million population located within 100 kms of the Angolan border. There is a red line drawn across the country (east –west) ostensibly to control animal diseases such as mad cow disease. However north of this red line the huge farms with fences owned mostly by wealthy whites disappear and huge blocks of communal lands appear together with lots of local/native compounds which contain anywhere from two to twenty huts. From what we understand each of these compounds is family orientated…ie a head man or chief with his wives and siblings and children some of who are also married with kids. This northerly area is much closer to the real Africa in my mind with African huts gathered in small enclosures. This line in some respects is a line between the haves and the have nots. The other interesting thing is that we have seen 2 of Namibia’s 4 major rivers….3 on the northerly border and the last one on the southerly border with South Africa. There are many river signs on the highways but they are all dry…rocks and sand. Apparently they only flow in the wet season in January and February. In fact some of them only flow every 6 or 7 years. When they do flow they become a real driving hazard-you have to drive through water not knowing how deep it is or what sort of bottom exists….this treat is not until the rainy season in January and February although sometimes it starts in December..

One of the mistakes we made is that we bought a sedan similar to a Toyota Corolla. In retrospect we should have bought a ‘bakkie’ or a truck with heavy duty suspension. After many kms on gravel roads we were delighted to get back to the tarmac. The gravel roads are very rough ..ie large pieces of gravel which makes you travel very slowly as well as causing many flat tires!!!It is tough to get a flat when you are miles from nowhere and little to no traffic on the road.

For the first 9 days I was in Rundu for a TUSANO conference with Anne joining me during the week. TUSANO (in Silozi this means lend a helping hand) is a project to set up post-test clubs for those people who have tested positive for HIV implemented  by the Social Marketing Association (SMA)  which is a large non profit organization funded by several international agencies. The first 5 days we toured local projects ( see all the orange shirts) which were started by local support groups(ie. post-test clubs)…mostly gardening along the Kavango river. All the ingredients are here for successful projects…ie. water ,land and people. Having said that, it is an enormous challenge to organise and arrange for the land to be cleared by people with no money and no education who face discrimination from the local community. These support groups are formed by people who are living with HIV/AIDS (PLWHA) from 7 members to 65 members and are supported to some extent by SMA. The magic of this program is that it provides the PLWHA with something to do (they are all unemployed) as well as supplying them in part with some food. The food is very important as the ARV drugs loose a lot of their effectiveness if the recipients have empty stomachs. The last 2 days constituted the formal part of the conference…speeches and reports from the various regions. Yours truly made a presentation on LAC’s contribution…namely a human rights approach to HIV/AIDS. This was a summary of LAC’s 3 day workshop on the legal rights available to PLWHA .All in all the conference was a big success. It allowed PLWHA to show themselves as a group in public – something that is not very easy to do. We even had a parade down the main street of Rundu!!!

North Again

Part of tthe focus group working on cartoons

Fabric for sale in Rundu

Walking home, Rundu

Girls ready to dance at Yelula conference

Herero Women Opuwu

Above Epupa Falls

At the falls

Epupa Falls

Himba headman in his compound

Headman and first wife

Himba boy coming from garden compound

Himba girls, after puberty to right before in the centre

Himba girls hair

Milking time

Watching the milking

Utensil storage

New baby inside hut

Rundu street

Looking across the Kavango from Rundu guest house

These girls are married

Through the headmans door

Giraffes at Etosha

Flirting ostriches, Etosha

Oops!

Lions, oryx and ostrich, Etosha

Himba girl watching soccer

We’ve been on a three week jaunt around the north of Namibia, partly for work and part holiday.  First we were in Rundu on the banks of the Kavango River looking across to Angola.  Until recently this part of Angola did not have electricity but now at night the odd light was visible in a distant village.  I was testing cartoons on various laws and doing training while Andy was attending and presenting at the Tusano meetings.  Then we were off to the Yelula Conference to do consultations on what should be included in the Child Care and Protection Act.  The organizations attending the conference are all community based organization working at a grass roots level with people who are  HIV positive so it was very appropriate to be consulting with them about how children should be protected in the new act. The name of this years conference was Children Count. Finally we were off on holidays to the north west of the country to visit Opuwu and Epupa Falls, both of which are in Himba country.  We visited a Himba family compound where our guide explained the customs of this group which resisted the attempts of Victorian missionaries to dress them!  The Herero on the other hand were sold on the Victorian layers of dresses and though the two groups today speak the same language and are actually related, they could not look more different from each other!  Finally we visited Etosha, me for the second time and saw black rhinos and young (at night so no photos!)  as well as lions sleeping off a heavy meal of giraffe.  Elephants blocked our way for a while on our way back from the lion kill.  The next day we came upon courting ostriches and of course the Okahkuejo waterhole where we camped provided constant entertainment of oryx, zebra, springbok, kudu and more!

A Trip to the North

Kudu and springbok

Orphans and vulnerable children having dinner

Singers, Swakop

Swakop children

Swakop children watching focus group!

Walvish Bay

Flamingoes

I have been doing a great deal of travelling lately for work, so much that I have not had time to get to the blog!  I was in the very north of the country for most of a week and was lucky enough to meet a number of wonderful people through the focus groups I was running along with two other people.  The scenery in the north is completely different from the south, small holdings of land, family compounds fenced with sticks with the thatched roofs of the huts sticking up above the fences and the tall golden grass.  Cows, goats, and sheep wander freely in flocks on the roads and the school children in their uniforms emerge from winding paths to walk along the roadsides giggling with their friends. This is the area where there was severe flooding in March and there was still a great deal of shallow water lying in the fields.  And the dusty palm trees grow naturally.  In the rest of the country they have to be watered.  We were able to spend one day at Etosha, the famous game reserve and I spent a number of hours by the waterhole at Okahuejo watching the comings and goings of various animals that showed up in waves and then wandered off to be replaced by a wave of some other species.  I don’t know how the giraffes survive.  They are so nervous about the other animals that in the time I watched they never got to the waterhole for a drink.

Immediately after the trip north I went to the west coast to Swakop and Walvis Bay.  The air was warm and moist, a time to repair my cracked lips and dry skin.  We did focus groups in the location, the poor part of town and were treated to a rehearsal of a group of youth who have been singing together for 5 years.  A quick side trip to Walvis Bay to see the flamingos and then back to Windhoek before heading east towards the Kalahari Desert tomorrow!

Family compound

Tombstones for sale

Storage baskets on the northern road

Secretary bird

Ostrich, Etosha

Elephants at the waterhole, Etosha

Giraffes oryx and elephant, Etosha

Zebras, Etosha

Blue wildebeast, Etosha